The islands are big holiday destinations, but not in May. So much was closed until 1st June, or said it was open and wasn't, or said it was there but was actually under construction. Here is the first Ttourist Information office. Inside was 'work in progress', planks of wood, tools, but not a soul in sight.
There were nice places by the sea to stop for lunch and the occasional cafe, usually a village store selling everything and with a table outside for a cup of coffee or beer. Biscuits and sweets were often sold in the old fashioned way, weighed out loose from open boxes. And very good.
Kuressaare is an old town with still some cobbled streets and old houses. Like much else it had suffered in war and occupation years and these were recorded in huge museum. As Tom mentioned there was also humour, as in the stairs if jokes. Read them going up.
And then the meal in the windmill, which you could explore whilst waiting for the food to come. It went up four floors, with tables on each. I pitied the waiters when the place was full. The stairs got quite steep.
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