Eastern Rhodopes 2

The stone mushrooms. That describes them perfectly. They are maybe 3 metres high. The stems are relatively soft stone and the top bits a harder rock. A result of differential erosion and amusing.

After seeing these we returned to      recharged our bike batteries and continued. To start with agricultural land in a valley, but it could not and did not last. Up and up again and at one point we had a long view to the North across central Bulgaria. Down then up including a marvellous bit of brand new road where the map said low grade road. Got to the site of an old Thracian stone circle. Actually this was a good mile up a footpath and we wouldn't have found it but for directions by a shepherdess. It was an emotive place.

To the vulture centre by the river Arda for overnight. Learned a bit about vultures and their importance . Saw a Griffin vulture on a high cliff with the help of the warden and his high magnification telescope.

Next day, down the Arda gorge until we had to climb out of it. Up, Northwards to cross another ridge. At the top, Thracian niches carved on a cliff; we looked for them to no avail.

Then on to Merek village with the by-now glorious descent on the way
Here is a well preserved Thracian "beehive" tomb, a underground passage to a well formed round chamber. The artifacts found there are in various museums but the place was well worth seeing.

Then to the edge of Svelengrad for overnight before across to Greece next day

Eastern Rhodopes 1

After Smoljan, we went North of the EV13 route, firstly to Ardino. There were two reasons for this. We wanted to save distance, and there were several POI's on our adapted route.

The Eastern Rhodopes are different. They are still mountainous and from the cyclist's perspective there are still plenty of long hills up (and long descents). The vistas are more sweeping, with less steep ravines - not to say these are absent. There seems to be more in the way of fields and growing of crops.

When we arrived in Ardino, there was time to go to see the Devil's Bridge. There are many Devil's Bridges across Europe - we know the one in Wales. This is Bulgaria's. It is in a ravine, over the upper reaches of the Arda river and is a superb piece of medieval engineering, and beautiful.

After Ardino, we cycled to near Perperikon, and went to see it next day.

Perperikon is quite extraordinary. It is a hillside city carved over many centuries from the rock. In pre-Roman times it was a large Thracian settlement, and included a temple of Dionysius, complete with an oracle. The Romans took this on board and extended and fortified the place. In the middle ages it was an important religious centre. Then it was lost, and serious excavation has only recently uncovered the extent of it.

Next day, we visited the stone mushrooms and stayed the night in a vulture centre.

Central Rhodopes

After Devin, much less high pastureland. The road wound its way up another narrow gorge, with more ascent than the descent in the one we had come down yesterday. It emerged in the village of Siroka Laka, where tourism with accompanying retail outlets was much on evidence.

We stopped for lunch and looked around and I left my mobile somewhere - this fact yo be discovered miles later, far too far on to do anything about it. We continued on, a long way up, to the edge of a ski area, then down into Smoljan. We had accommodation in a place a bit before the town.

Next day, into Smoljan town. We saw the new and impressive cathedral, and cycled on. It was downhill all the way and I got quite cold, so we made a cafe stop just to warm up. Some heavy climbing came later, of course.

We now went off route (off EV13) to the north of that route, to Ardino. This and where we went next is in the Eastern Rhodopes, so details to come.

The Western Rhodope mountains

I had not heard of the Rhodope mountains before coming on this trip. They are stunningly beautiful, quite remote, the home of  lactophilus bulgaricus, the birthplace of Orpheus, and high though not of Alpine height. They border Greece and were in the land of Thrace. Of course I had heard of skiing in Bulgaria. Now we have seen some of the ski mountains, although now with no snow.

After leaving Macedonia, we stayed in an establishment with an Olympic swimming pool. It was also an ordinary hotel and like them all here very good value for money. It is not high up.

So, to get high up. We ascended the Popski pass, more that 1000 metres of climbing, the road often above deep ravines and the views amazing. Near the top, our batteries ran out and we relied on our muscles only. We now really knew the value of electric power! Our bikes do not have a "granny gear" and are heavy. We had to push for most of 2/3 km. At the top a cafe, soup, salad and recharge.

Downhill was spectacular, to Goce Delcev. We had found another place to stay, a bit further, Ogyanovo where there are hot springs. Most hot spring activity had been siphoned off into hotels, but there was a large public hot tub, about 40 C, which was great.

The next day more climbing and fantastic scenery, to Dospat. A mixture of pine forests and meadows. Cows just wander anywhere and it is all rather bucolic. And beautiful.

The next day was another high up. At the end, downhill spectacularly and into the spa town, Devin. We stayed in a more expensive place, for use of a hot swimming pool.  It was only just warm, but there was a sauna. Then found we had left our guide to EV13 where we had had lunch. Not too far back and nice to ride my bike with full electric power and no luggage!

More high Rhodope scenery the next day, to Smoljan.

Macedonia

From Rila we cycled West, then South, then West again, into Macedonia, to the town of Delchevo. The last bit of this journey was over range of hills that involved climbing several hundred metres to a border crossing up on high then a long descent into Delchevo.

EV13 then goes pretty well due South and this took two days. To start with, out of Delchevo, it was easy going. But the countryside became very remote and the road, which was a good one, became steep uphill. Then down to Berovo, even though Berovo is nearly 1000 metres up. Anyway we enjoyed our stay there and had very good wine with a very good supper.

The next day was well in the mountains with 3 mountain passes to cross. After the last the descent to a broad and prosperous-looking valley was a long one.

We stayed in an appartment above a private house. The owner gave us coffee and we chatted a while. Among what he said, Macedonians are looking forward to EU accession, noting that neighbouring Bulgaria was now richer that Macedonia, and before they joined, they were poorer.

Next day was along the valley and back into Bulgaria with the Rhodope mountains ahead.

Rila

Rila Monastery is important in Bulgarian history and culture. It Haas a high UNESCO rating and that sort of thing and nowadays is some sort of a tourist trap. We were quite happy to be trapped.

It started with a monk and Saint called Ioan or Ivan or John Rilski, in the ninth century. He started as a monk in a monastery in the neighbouring town of Bobosevo, then went to live as hermit in a cave way up the valley. But followers emerged and together they founded a monastery near the cave. As the movement grew they moved to the present site. Pilgrims came over the years and gave gifts. They included the king who made the whole valley a royal reserve for the monastery.

It burned down in the early 19th century and the present buildings resulted.

What is a "tourist trap"? There were plenty of people there when we went. There must have been plenty when it was a centre of pilgrimage. Is the difference that the pilgrims were religiously motivated? We arrived at the end of the morning mass (which had started at 08.00; we arrived a bit before 11.00; it was Sunday) and there were many in the church at mass. We went to the evening service and there was a good attendance.

We were moved by the evening service. In the Orthodox way it was entirely sung and chanted. It had a numinous quality that enveloped us.

Apart from going to church, we went to the small but excellent museum, for which we had a guide who spoke English, and other exhibitions. We spent time looking at the frescoes that entirely cover the church. And we went to the restaurant.

The monastery is high up, along a long and climbing road. We stayed in a hotel complex about 7 km down, so cycled up in the morning. The downhill ride after the evening service was peaceful and wonderful.

Into the Balkan mountains

After our visit to Magura, we cycled, downhill all the way, to Dimovo and a train to Vratsa. Then a day off cycling, with our friend Petar who among other things chose a fabulous red wine on the second evening with him.

Which does not say anything about mountains. Vratsa is at the base of part of the Balkan mountain chain, and we had to be within the chain. I won't say on top of the mountains as that implies mountaineering, whereas we just ride bikes. But we had to get ourselves plus bikes up there. We now began to grasp the meaning of the word "uphill" in Bulgaria. The road up was a main road and not too steep, up a river valley. We stayed on a pension not yet fully "up" and the next day arrived in Dragoman, pretty much on top as towns go. Next day, a fabulous down - one of the joys of cycling  is such a descent - followed soon after by a grinding up - one of the reasons ebikes are essential for our age group.

We travelled through Dragoman, Tran and Kyusyendil, eventually getting to Rila Monastery. The was much going up, and much going down. The descent into Kyusyendil I will always remember. The mountain scenery is magnificent. The ride down the gorge of the river Strumika was wonderful.

Rila Monastery in the next posting.